How to Set the Direction of the Lashes

1. Each lash needs an “individual approach.” We never go by the direction of the natural lashes, since they can grow every which way. So you always have to find which side to place the extension or fan on to set the direction you want and get enough contact area.

2. Set the direction gradually, increasing the angle little by little. Take your cue from the neighboring lash, all the lashes should run almost parallel to each other, like soldiers in formation, without crossing or fanning apart.

3. Pay attention to the direction of the TIPS! Lashes or fans can run parallel at the base but cross at the tips. The result: the direction still won’t look the way you want.

4. Use the mapping method. For many people, it’s much easier to set reference points that guide the direction of the whole set. (continued below)

An example of direction in lash extensions

5. Work on the geometry of the fan. Fans should be as uniform as possible and not too wide, then the direction will be even too.

6. Let the lash dry. Don’t rush to the neighboring one: first, you’ll almost certainly get a sticky, and second, you can shift the direction of the freshly attached lash with your own tweezers, since the adhesive hasn’t dried enough yet to hold the fan.

7. Check that the margin is even everywhere. If the margin is inconsistent, the direction will be inconsistent too, no matter how hard you try.

8. Practice. Not just on clients, but at home too. You can take a sponge, line up a few individual extensions along the edge (one at a time), and try extending a lash or fan onto each one, setting the classic fanned direction. You can also use a strip of false lashes as your base.

Happy lashing!

Angling lashes toward the nose in the corners: yes or no?

Artists often wonder: can you angle the lashes toward the nose in the inner corner? What do you think?

A lot of teachers say you can’t angle lashes toward the nose. Why? So far the main argument I’ve heard is that they’ll bother the client and catch on the skin. But here’s the thing!

We always take the shortest lashes for the inner corners, most often 5 mm and only in the softest B or C curl. At that length and curl, the lashes won’t touch the skin at all!

The inner corner is tricky to work in to begin with: the lashes there are thin and short, often vellus (baby) lashes, and they grow in every direction. They’re already hard to extend, and setting an even direction is harder still. This is where you just have to get the hang of it and find an “individual approach” to each one, meaning which side to place the extension or fan on so the direction ends up exactly how you want it, not how the natural lash happens to grow.

Of course, there are times when you shouldn’t angle the lashes toward the nose, for example, when the client has close-set eyes. In every other case, this direction visually elongates the eye! So there’s no reason to be afraid of angling lashes toward the nose.

Read also:

How to Set the Direction of the Lashes During Application

Working the Inner and Outer Corners in Lash Extensions