How to Set the Direction of the Lashes

1. Each lash needs an “individual approach.” We never go by the direction of the natural lashes, since they can grow every which way. So you always have to find which side to place the extension or fan on to set the direction you want and get enough contact area.

2. Set the direction gradually, increasing the angle little by little. Take your cue from the neighboring lash, all the lashes should run almost parallel to each other, like soldiers in formation, without crossing or fanning apart.

3. Pay attention to the direction of the TIPS! Lashes or fans can run parallel at the base but cross at the tips. The result: the direction still won’t look the way you want.

4. Use the mapping method. For many people, it’s much easier to set reference points that guide the direction of the whole set. (continued below)

An example of direction in lash extensions

5. Work on the geometry of the fan. Fans should be as uniform as possible and not too wide, then the direction will be even too.

6. Let the lash dry. Don’t rush to the neighboring one: first, you’ll almost certainly get a sticky, and second, you can shift the direction of the freshly attached lash with your own tweezers, since the adhesive hasn’t dried enough yet to hold the fan.

7. Check that the margin is even everywhere. If the margin is inconsistent, the direction will be inconsistent too, no matter how hard you try.

8. Practice. Not just on clients, but at home too. You can take a sponge, line up a few individual extensions along the edge (one at a time), and try extending a lash or fan onto each one, setting the classic fanned direction. You can also use a strip of false lashes as your base.

Happy lashing!