How to Tame Your Lash Adhesive

The conditions for adhesive to work its best

Humidity

Cyanoacrylate adhesives polymerize within a few seconds under the influence of humidity. The higher the relative humidity in the room, the faster the adhesive cures. But there’s an optimal range. The best conditions for a strong, reliable bond come at 40 to 70% relative humidity. If the humidity is too low (under 30%), the cure time gets too long; if it’s too high (over 80%), you get what’s called shock polymerization, and that leads to a weaker bond.

Temperature

Temperature has a big effect on the speed of the chemical reaction. Raising it by about 18°F (10°C) doubles the polymerization time. But there’s a specific range that gives the best results: between 68 and 80°F (20 to 27°C). Keep in mind that at lower or higher temperatures, the adhesive’s viscosity changes.

The surface condition

For cyanoacrylate adhesives, a clean surface matters, and so does the pH value. On an acidic surface, the cure time increases. On an alkaline surface, curing speeds up. But if the surface is too alkaline, shock polymerization can occur, which degrades the adhesive’s properties. As you know, healthy human skin has a neutral pH of about 5.5, which is why a special primer is used to make the surface slightly more alkaline.

The adhesive drop has to be refreshed constantly during the service! Depending on the adhesive, the room climate, and the surface the drop sits on, you need to change it every 20 to 35 minutes.

Tips for working with adhesive

• The adhesive in the drop should be fluid enough. As soon as it gets thicker and more viscous, change the drop.
• Use a medium amount of adhesive per lash. Too little leads to it polymerizing before it even reaches the lash, too much leads to stickies and messy work.
• Go by the grab speed the manufacturer states.
• Prep the lashes for the application. Use primer and a cleanser, so the adhesive grabs better and retention lasts longer.
• Use a humidifier to speed up polymerization. BUT! If you’re working in a hot or humid room and picking up too little adhesive, or can’t keep up with its grab speed, a humidifier will only make the problem worse.
• To make the adhesive polymerize slower, work in a cooler room or set yours to 70 to 72°F (21 to 22°C). Or use a slower adhesive.

Read also:

Room Climate: The Ideal Temperature and Humidity for Lash Extensions

Lash Extensions in Summer: How to Tame Adhesive in the Heat

Working With Lash Adhesive in Winter